Just a quick one today!

We all had such a great time today while creating mini scenes inside the small pocket watches! There were 3-4 watch styles and sizes to choose from, a couple were locket size, several backgrounds, and many different tiny people and animals to choose from.

Everyone made some really cute scenes and had a blast. I can hardly wait to cut a wooden watch stand to display mine! It’s so fun when you can make a mini in an everyday item like the pocket watches. Look around your house and see what you can find to make a mini scene inside.

I came home with extra supplies to make a second watch and will post it here when finished.

Happy Mini Making,

Teri

The Woodland Collection

One of my favorite designs last year was the Woodland Collection that I created for the 2025 Chicago Spring Showcase of Miniature Show. Created for my Pergola kits, the cut-and-scored leafy vines are lovely accents for both structures and furniture. Not only are these kits fun and easy to build, but they can also be very relaxing to finish. If you find coloring fun, using acrylic paint markers to color the vines and/or leaves can be extremely relaxing and rewarding.

So far, the collection consists of a Pergola in 1:12, 1:24, and 1:48 scales, various cabinets, a bookcase, and patio furniture sets, also in various scales. These sold out at the shows I did last year, but I’ve made up a few more for this year’s show, as well as some new things for the collection. I plan to add more for the Indy show, so keep an eye out!

I wound up with a couple of sets of patio furniture left and decided to finish them up by adding a decorative screen and a base, as you see in the photo above. These will be sold as finished items at the upcoming show.

The pergola can be finished in a variety of ways, but the favorite seems to have been the black and brown color scheme with painted leaves. Last year, I had some weathervanes that could be added to the top of the 1:12 scale version, but those are no longer available.

In the photos below, you can see one of the bookcase kits inside the structure and a close-up of the tapestry kit. Where these were sold separately, the furniture and tapestry kits are now included with the Pergola as a full kit.

At left, you can see the light fixture I created for the Pergola. These include a twist-on/off battery operated led light. Both the light and the fixture are held in place with a magnet so they can easily be removed and replaced as needed.

The light fixture with the light is only available with the 1:12 and 1:24 scale kits. Only the light fixture is available in the 1:48 scale, and the light was just too large.

The China Cabinet is another one of my favorite furniture pieces and was very popular at the shows. The cabinet can be used with both the lower and upper parts glued together, or as separate pieces with the shelf unit hung on a wall. The vine cut version is only available in 1:12 and 1:24 scales, while the scored version is available in all three scales.

(ABOVE) Vine cut China Cabinet Kit

(LEFT) Scored China Cabinet Kit

This is just the start of this collection, as I have many other ideas for structures and furniture items. While I will only have a small amount of these kits at the show, all items in the collection will soon be available for ordering on my website shop.

If you would like to know when new kits are added to the collection, be sure to sign up for my newsletters!

Till next time . . . happy mini making!

Teri

NAME group project by Cindy McDaniel Miniatures

This darling little “She Shed” was a fun project to teach me patience while working with some of the tiny fiddly parts (grin). My joy has always come from building the main structure and then finishing the structure and landscaping. After working on these smaller decorative parts, I’m finding a growing sense of accomplishment from working with the smaller items.

I adore these tiny wood post-style birdhouses with faux tin roofs.

The picnic table fits so well with the simple style and theme of the project.

I added two flower pots in the corners, made from painted wood beads.

During the meeting, several of us remarked that the rocking chairs and side table looked way too large for the scale of the shed. The size made a bit more sense when we were told they were “Cracker Barrel Rockers” (grin), but I’m still a bit unsure of how well they fit. For now, they stay, and I will be dressing the little table very soon.

That’s all for this time, but stay tuned for more projects coming in the months ahead.

Till next time, happy mini making!

Teri

Feb 2024

This was the project from the second meeting I attended, which I’m guessing was in Feb/Mar. The project was offered by Kristie.

This was a lot of fun and the first time I’ve made something in an Altoids tin. The only changes I made were with the couch (the kit one had a back like the chairs, but it broke on me), using a little kit from Petite Properties, and adding a false wall at the back to give the room more dimension.

Here you can see the couch I substituted as well as the little pillow.

Don’t you just LOVE the style of the little chairs! I’m still sad that my couch broke.

While something I would not normally do, I wound up loving the variety of bricks used.

Till next time.

Feel free to download my PDF build file for tips!

Have fun!

Teri

Another fun HP Project I found on Etsy! Feel free to download my PDF build file below for building tips!

Enjoy!

Teri

If you love Harry Potter miniatures, you should give this one a try. It’s such fun and a great representation of Olivander’s Wand Shop! Feel free to download and print out my build PDF file for some tips!

Have FUN!

Teri

Welcome back! I’ve managed to find some time to get back to the Mill Pond Cottage. The ground floor inside has now been finished with numerous gears and other equipment. This is the working mechanical area of the structure. The upper floor will be the living quarters.

A light, that I tinted with alcohol ink, has been run behind the gears and up through the roof. The wires will be hidden later on. The mechanical parts were crafted from various wood scraps and household items. I always look at items before throwing them away with the thought that they might be used in a miniature one day. It’s a good practice to get into. You probably will notice a bendy straw or two in there as well.

Next, I’m going to exchange the roof parts from the kit with identical parts cut from the Cricut Corrugated Cardboard material. I want the roof to have a metal finish when complete. To give the roof more strength, I’ve glued the original roof pieces to the back of the cardboard.

Both sides of the roof pieces will be painted, then glued into place. I have used Folk Art Matte paint in the following order on both sides of all roofs: Medium Grey, then dry-brushed with Coffee Bean. and used a mix of Cardinal Red, Pure Orange, and a bit of Coffee Bean to create rust in various spots. A very light dry-brush of light grey was added on top. Here’s what the end results look like.

Below, you can see how I’ve added more rust using a Rust Texture from Green Stuff World. You only have to use a tiny bit, so the bottle will last a long time. I did, however, think it was too orange and came back over top of the entire roof with a dry-brush of pale grey, which toned it down.

Here is an additional piece of junk that I’ve made up to go on the second floor. It’s a good example of before and after. Also, a good example of how these bits can come in handy for steampunk building.

There is also a light inside the very top of the object.

At this point, I’m going to glue the house to the base. I’ll be working on the base, possibly going back and forth from the base to the inside furniture. For now, I need to take another break, but I will update this post as the build progresses!

Thanks for stopping by, and have a crafty day!

Teri

Not long ago you would have seen my Steampunk Clock Tower project using another kit from my favorite place: PetiteProperties. The Mill Pond kit is from the same company and will be a perfect addition to my Steampunk series! I’ll be using some new techniques and finishes so I hope you will find these of interest and give them a try for your next project.

Stone walls look so nice on these miniatures but can take a lot of time depending on how you execute them. Not being very patient, I’ve decided to try a new method using a mold for the walls. Think hot glue and silicone molds! This was a super easy and quick way to create the walls and I simply love the way they turned out.

• Mill Pond Cottage
• Mill Pond Cottage Base
• Green Stuff World Molds-Graveyard
• Hot Glue Clear
• Matte Mod Podge
• Glue Gun
• Acrylic Paint
• DuraClear Matte brush on sealer

The mold is a little pricy but when you consider that it is high quality, can be used with a variety of materials, and can be used over and over, it’s not bad. There is also the option to use the entire mold and build the graveyard shown on the package! To use the mold simply dust it lightly with flour then fill it with hot glue. Fill one mold at a time and quickly press a scrap of cardstock on top. Press the cardstock to help the glue fill the mold and leave it attached. The cardstock gives the molded glue a nice base for gluing to the wood structure.

Give the glue a few minutes to dry then gently remove it from the mold. Dust it off to remove any flour from the top. Tint a bit of matte mod podge with dark brown, grey, or black, based on your overall color scheme, and coat the piece on the front and sides. Set aside to dry. Repeat to make enough wall pieces to cover your project. Once all pieces are dry you can attach the pieces to your walls and paint as you like for your project. Here’s a close-up of my finished walls.

Up close you can see where the glue didn’t get all the way into the mold. For me, this was just an added bonus and makes the wall look even more realistic. So don’t be worried if it happens to you as well! For the corners, you can either miter cut them so the sides but up against each other or just line them up and add some extra blobs of hot glue as I’ve done. If you have to use multiple glue walls, put them together as close as possible. You can fill in the gaps with either more hot glue or regular glue as needed. Just do so sparingly!

You can also see where I’ve added the door frame and painted it. The door will be glued in place once the inside walls are finished.

Now it’s time to work on the inside walls. I’ll be using a grit paste and paint mixture on all of the walls.

• Ranger Grit Paste Opaque
• Folk Art acrylic paint

Mix a bit of acrylic paint and a bit of water together to get your desired color. The consistency should be like icing. Apply the mixture with a palette knife and let dry completely. I’ll add a light wash over this to age it when dry.

For the flooring, I’ve created a stencil with an SVG file from Etsy, and cut it on the Cricut Maker. Grit paste was used with the stencil and left till it was dry. Dry brush the stones with various colors, let dry then use a black wash over top and leave to dry. You can also see the wash used on the walls in the photo on the left.

Lastly, the floor was installed, the door and frames were installed and the entire piece is coated with one layer of the brush on matte sealer. The door handles were created with a jump ring and brad.

Next, I’ll be working on the upper floor.

Glue the second-floor main pieces together. Use the other two pieces shown in the pic to mark where they will be attached. This way you won’t add texture or flooring in these areas.

Don’t forget to mark off any window frames as well.

Here you can see the walls and a ceiling textured with the same Grit-Paste that I used earlier. Notice that I’ve left some areas untextured so the remaining pieces can be glued into place.

NOTE: If you are adding lights, you will want to drill holes as needed at this time. For this build, because of the theme, I’m going to mount lights and let the wires show.

Here’s a look at the flooring and other walls finished. The flooring was created by scoring lines on some Cricut kraft board. Paint the flooring with several colors as you like then seal them with a single coat of brush on matte sealer. You can also sand the floors a bit if you prefer a rougher look to them.

At this point, I needed to stop and figure out what trim pieces go with all of the other parts. There are still two additional sections to be added to the main structure and these will be finished using the same techniques and materials that I have used previously. So these two sections need to be built and finished before they are attached to the house.

Here is a look at the two additional sections. Both now have textured walls and wood flooring installed. These will be added to the main structure after the outside areas have been completed.

The outside was covered with the same grit paste that was tinted with a bit of golden brown and grey. I’ve painted the outside trim with various colors from brown to grey then attached it to the outside walls. Finally, I’ve attached the section that protrudes from the end wall. Below you can see what the two floors look like just sitting on the base.

If you are also working on this project and wish to put furniture on the inside, I suggest that you do not attach the bottom section to the top until you have finished decorating the inside.

I’m now at the point where I will start adding the steampunk elements to the inside and outside of the structure. Unfortunately, we have just purchased a house so building minis will have to be put on hold for a couple of months!!! I know …… but life happens doesn’t it. I promise to get back to the project as quickly as possible so just hang tight till then. In the meantime, if you want some ideas for steampunk minis, take a look at my Steampunk Clock Tower build or the Steampunk Clock.

Happy building . . .

Teri

‘Touchdown!’ said Fred as, with a slight bump, they hit the ground. They had landed next to a tumbledown garage in a small yard and Harry looked out for the first time at Ron’s house.It looked as though it had once been a large stone pigsty, but extra rooms had been added here and there until it was several storeys high and so crooked it looked as though it was held up by magic (which, Harry reminded himself, it probably was). Four or five chimneys were perched on top of the red roof. A lop-sided sign stuck in the ground near the entrance read ‘The Burrow’. Round the front door lay a jumble of wellington boots and a very rusty cauldron. Several fat brown chickens were pecking their way around the yard.”It’s not much, but it’s home,” said Ron. “It’s brilliant,” said Harry happily, thinking of Privet Drive.

• Finished size: a bit smaller than 1:48 scale. 10″ Square by 17″ high.

From the moment I saw the Burrow I was in love with it and wanted to live there. All the quirkiness, lopsided walls, and rooms just called to me making me want to view the inside. I knew one day I would build a miniature of it but was just lazy about it until I ran across a video on YouTube.

Zest Visions has a video on YouTube featuring a fantastic modification for this kind of kit. I believe she has done four kits from the series using this same method. Her video inspired me enough that I purchased the kit and have started modifying it. I can’t wait to see the finished project!

Building The Burrow was a bit of a slow process because you must decide what tabs to cut off or trim depending on your finishing ideas but it’s truly a very fun time and you don’t need expensive materials. I found a Miter Shear tool convenient for cutting popsicle sticks, which can be found on Amazon for under $20 if you don’t have one.

As you can see from the image below, I’ve attached the base to a piece of foam core and have started finishing the main floor walls.

I’m using popsicle sticks and square wood dowels to add all wood accents to the walls and around the windows. I’ll attach larger square wood dowels for supports that rest under the window and in other parts of the structure.

*Coffee Bean acrylic paint by Folk Art for wood stain and Ranger Grit Paste for wall texture.

Looking closely at the second image above, you can see that I have added mesh to the windows. Many of the windows in this build will be different styles created with mesh, plastic, and vellum. I’ve used a wire form mesh in a 1/8″ pattern material on most windows. You can easily paint the mesh with an acrylic paint and finish it with a matte spray sealer.

Because I want the structure to be permanent and in many places, To hide the tabs, I’ve cut them off and glued some parts together. Both bases are glued to each other as well as the foam base. I’m also gluing all the walls to the base and each other. I left the bottom tabs on the walls but removed all top tabs except those on the very back wall and the one by the set of double windows where the beam has been added to support the roof. Leaving the back wall top tabs gives you something to help align the roof properly when you attach it.

I built both the chimney and roof at the same time. Once in place, I’ve glued the roof onto the inner parts where each roof section meets the other section. Once glued, you need to use a craft knife and remove as many tabs that stick out on the chimney and roof so they do not interfere with shingles and brickwork.

At this time it’s best to go ahead and build the remaining parts of the structure but don’t glue the pieces. This will help you to see where things go and what parts touch or hide other areas.

You can see in the image below right that I have marked off where other pieces go that attach to the roof. This keeps me from placing shingles on those areas and preventing the pieces from fitting correctly.

The roof pieces have gray colored areas which I’m covering with strips of cardstock that will be painted to look like wood boards as patches to the roof. The remainder of the roof will be covered in my wonky-style shingles cut from cardstock on the Cricut machine.

Using a dark and light brown cardstock for the shingles with one thinner coat of red paint allows some of the cardstock’s brown color to show through adding depth to the shingles.

Once the red has dried I’ve dry-brushed the shingles with a bit of cream and brown paint.

Where darker shadows or definition is needed – the wood boards – I’ve added diluted black paint with a very tiny brush.

Vellum and wire mesh painted black were added to the window at the top.

Now that the shingles are completed, I will move on to the next part which is the upper structures. There are two parts/sections to the upper structure and they need to be completed separately. I have used the same methods as I previously did for the first floor and roof.

Looking at the images below you can see that I’ve varied the window styles, added some texture paste in some areas, then used some drywall tape in other places, and added popsicle sticks for wood in different directions in the remaining places. To represent glass in many of the windows I’ve used UV Resin.

I’ve decided to use battery-operated string lights in this build. At left you can see where I’ve cut a hole in the base, taped the battery pack to a piece of foam board, and fed the lights up through the structure as I build each section. When finished, I will add a foam board that can easily be removed and replaced in the cut-out area to gain access to the lights.

Now I will add the shingles to the roof and then begin working on the second section. Because making extremely tiny bricks on the chimney would be tedious, I’ve covered it with tinted texture paste to represent a stone chimney. The remainder of the build is repetitive of what you have seen above so here are some pics of the final build!

The final part of the build will be to add the landscape which will be fairly plain. Mainly grass and a few rocks here and there will be used as the Burrow was built in a rural setting. I’ve used a method I’ve come to love when creating ground.

Crumple up strips of cheap aluminum foil and glue to the base. Next cover the entire base with masking tape completely covering all of the foil.

Mix cheap Elmers glue with water so that it’s runny. Tear paper towels into small strips or squares. Apply glue to the base in small areas then glue the paper towel to the base applying a good bit of glue on top. Pounce the brush and smush the paper towel around to create creases and help remove any pattern on the paper towel. Let dry overnight.

Paint the base with grass, ground, and lake colors with a good full coverage of paint. The colors I’ve used in the above image are the darkest base colors. Once dry I will add landscaping materials and some dry-brushed areas with more paint.

Here you can see how I’ve dry-brushed the base, added rocks around the lake, and some of the landscape materials I’ll be adding next.

After adding all the landscaping materials I sprayed the entire piece with a matte spray sealer. Next, I’ve added the resin for the pond.

All finished . . .

Till next time . . . Happy mini making!

Teri

It’s official . . . the previous owners of the New England Lighthouse have been hit by the current economy and have had to abandon their precious lighthouse home, leaving all belongings behind. The Emerald Coven of Witches has purchased the lighthouse to use for future local chapter meetings and a shop to sell magical goods. The problem is that none of the coven members has time to spend fixing up the lighthouse to suit their needs. But . . . they have come up with a solution that should work well.

In a recent unfortunate event, a coven member named Zelda was found to be dealing in black magic, which is against the coven’s rules. The head members have bound Zelda’s magic powers and banished her to the lighthouse. As punishment, Zelda will have to work on the lighthouse, without using magic, making it ready for the coven to use. What she once could have done with a few flicks of her wand, she now has to do with good old manual labor! Most unfortunately, if Zelda ever wants to get her magic unbound, she will have to report on her progress each week to the coven. After each report, a coven member will visit the lighthouse to make sure Zelda is not getting any help from magical friends in fixing up the lighthouse. Fortunately for Zelda, one old non-magic friend has agreed to help, even though she is old and can’t do much.

Zelda and her friend Matilda arrived to find the lighthouse in this run-down condition. It would appear that the previous owners were very neglectful of the property and extremely unhappy about having to leave.

Neither is happy about the daunting work ahead of them, but at least the lights are working, and there are sleeping quarters for two. The windows are not broken, and if they can find wood, the fireplace will provide warmth from the chilly sea air. It could be worse, they decide as they walk off in search of wood.

It will be interesting to see what these two get up to while working on the lighthouse. If you would like to follow along, bookmark this post and keep watch for weekly updates! You might also join the Covered Chipboard Facebook page to get notice of their progress reports.

Progress Reports . . .

• Zelda’s Progress Report 1

Stay tuned for more photos and adventures of Zelda and the Emerald Coven Lighthouse!

Scrolling through my favorite miniature kit site, Petite Properties, I ran across The Watchtower and just knew it would make a great clock tower. This was a project I had been thinking about for a while but it would be several years later before I purchased the kit and started on a very fun and unknown adventure.

With any 1:48 scale kit, you have a small working area for rooms, so it’s best to start with a single floor, complete it, then move on to the next floor. Generally, I will sort of pre-build a structure to get an idea of where parts go and then mark where floors align with other walls. Below, you can see how I’ve connected the floor and two sides and added the texture for the walls. Once that has been done, I can work on the lowest room.

I’m using a new set of lights on this build so that they can be worked into sconces and are easier to hide. These are Chip Nano 3 volt DC LED’s from Evan Designs. Sconces were created with a metal bead and small plastic tubes. It’s always best to add the lights as you go from floor to floor.

The wall texture was created using Tim Holtz Distress Grit Paste. This was the first time I’ve used this, and I absolutely love it! It’s very easy to apply with a palette knife, has just the right amount of texture, dries pretty quickly, and is easy to paint. A tad more expensive than other products, but worth the extra cost.

Sometimes, when you have no clear vision of what you want to create or how to create it, the best thing to do is to simply dive in and start playing with what you have. I think the more we create and immerse ourselves in a project, the more creative we are, and ideas seem to float into our heads. So that’s exactly what I did. I began with the inside floors of the main base section and just started gluing bits and pieces together.

Basically, I knew that a lot of machine-looking things would be needed, so using Gorilla Super Glue I just started gluing random items together to create these. I’ll be making many of these machines, as well as control panels for all three rooms. On the right, you can see how I’ve made a little chair with an earring back, cardstock, and a small gear. The clear grids are made from plastic needlepoint canvas.

After making up a few things and needing a break from super glue (grin), I decided to start a base for the project using the cardboard, tin foil, and masking tape method mentioned in a few earlier projects. As with most projects, the base did increase a LOT along the way!

Before adding any built items to the rooms, the floor must first be added. I find using a thin chipboard/cardboard works well without adding too much thickness, which can cause issues with doors and such along the way. In the right image, you can see a finished floor.

I painted the entire floor with watered-down brown acrylic paint and then dry-brushed the floor with a medium grey and finally an off-white paint. Sometimes a little light sanding can help to weather the flooring, then finish it off with a clear matte brush or spray sealer.

Last but not least, don’t forget the ceiling for each room, as that needs to be done before you move upward to the next floor! Each ceiling in this build is a bit different. The first two have the grit paste texture added; the final ceiling was simply painted. The first-floor ceiling has gears and a pipe from a metal wire attached to it.

And here’s a look at the completed first floor . . .

From here on out, I worked in the same way till all three rooms in the main tower were completed. The final room is located in the house section that sits on top of the tower. You can see below that it has been completed as well.

Next, it was time to work on the windows and extra parts that extend beyond the walls in some areas. These were painted with a base coat of medium grey, then stipple-painted with off-white to create a stone look.

Testing the structures on the base was the point where I decided the main tower needed a way to get water from what will eventually be added to the base, into the tower rooms. I’ve used the kit shown below to create the addition that will eventually be glued to the side of the tower.

This pretty much concludes the fiddly parts of the build. I’m almost at the point where it’s time to paint, where I’ll add a “part 2” post. So keep watch for that post coming soon!

Till then, here’s a little look at how I’ve decided to arrange everything and how much the bottom base has increased!

Update: Jan 19 . . .

Unfortunately, I managed to delete all the pics and post for part 2!!! Here’s a recap and some pictures of the finished project. So sorry about that! Please feel free to use the comment section below should you have questions about any part of this build.

Details . . .

Base: Earlier, you saw the base built with cardboard, aluminum foil, and masking tape. Here, it has been covered with a layer of paper towel dipped in glue and acrylic paint mix. Once that was dry, I used a dry-brush method to paint the entire base.

The bricks were created with foam, glued in place, and painted in a dry-brush technique.

Steps and stones were created from torn egg carton pieces and painted.

Various tiny rocks, sand, and vines were added once the base was dry.

The clock section was created with a breadcrumbs container, a wooden clock kit, cardboard, metal gear bits, and a clock image found online. The clock is not a working clock, but you could easily make it one using something like this one I used on my steampunk clock project.

You will notice that I’ve used metal bits, cardboard, mesh tape, plastic tube, paper, plastic straws, and flat-back gems all over the entire project to create various textures and industrial elements. It’s so much fun to create something with all these little bits we miniaturists tend to collect.

Lastly, here’s another look at the base where I’ve used ground scatter, rocks, and more vines. There is also a bit of black plastic fencing added to the bottom right side near some additional brick wall sections.

If you ever go out walking, take time to look at the ground and keep an eye out for bits of rock and sticks. These are always great to have in your stash for future projects.

Once again, I’m sorry that I wasn’t able to show more detail on the remaining part of the build. That said, what is here should give you a good idea of its creation and some how-to techniques. In the future, I plan to start uploading some quick videos showing these techniques, so keep watch on my YouTube channel for these!

Disclosure: Some of the links above are affiliate links. This means that, at zero cost to you, I will earn an affiliate commission if you click through the link and finalize a purchase.

Have a crafty day, and thanks for stopping by!

Teri

Yule Tide Christmas Shop is part of Petite Properties ‘Enchanted Cottages’ range of 1:48th scale dolls house kits. I had such a fun time creating this little house, and it certainly put me in the holiday mood. Hopefully, you will order one soon and give it a try!

I’m trying something new on posts . . . there is a Recipe card at the end of the post with “How” “Materials” & “Tools” list with links! Leave a comment and let me know if you like this and if I should keep using them!!

Christmas Vibes . . .

Each kit within this range comes with a set of full colour, step-by-step instructions that teach how to construct the property.  You can then bring the property to life as you choose

Includes:

• Precision laser-cut house carcass
• Pre-printed coloured windows
• Pre-cut door
• Pre-cut external detailing
• Pre-cut roof (excluding tiling)
• Pre-cut acetate backing

The house itself is open at the rear. It has 2 internal rooms.

Approx constructed dimensions

• Height = 14.7 cm
• Width = 11.2 cm
• Depth =  8.5  cm

Recipe for building

thank you!

Amazon Associates Disclosure

Teri Hanson is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to products at Amazon.com

*This service is provided at no additional cost to you, but I do earn a small commission when you make purchases using my Amazon links. These commissions help me to purchase supplies and continue to offer new content for you.

I very much appreciate your support!

Happy mini holidays . . .

Teri