Just a quick one today!

We all had such a great time today while creating mini scenes inside the small pocket watches! There were 3-4 watch styles and sizes to choose from, a couple were locket size, several backgrounds, and many different tiny people and animals to choose from.

Everyone made some really cute scenes and had a blast. I can hardly wait to cut a wooden watch stand to display mine! It’s so fun when you can make a mini in an everyday item like the pocket watches. Look around your house and see what you can find to make a mini scene inside.

I came home with extra supplies to make a second watch and will post it here when finished.

Happy Mini Making,

Teri

My first full-scale, 1:12, size dollhouse, and the second miniature I ever worked on was the Lighthouse from Real Good Toys. Sometimes, the space allotted in a dollhouse room can be smaller than what you would like, and you will need to find a creative way to make use of the space. This is exactly what I had to do in the top room of the lighthouse when using it as the bedroom. To this day, this is still one of my favorite ideas. I hope you find this tutorial helpful, and maybe it can be a solution for you one day!

Here is a look at the full room . . .

What I did was to create a loft bed with a sitting area underneath and a bath area on one side. In the first photo you can see a repurposed bought miniature cabinet, a little mirror I created from scraps, and a bathtub made from a food container. I love the faux wood wall and the ladder taking you up to the sleeping area.

Most of the items within the room has simple furnishings that were created with mat board and are non-functional. Beads make great furniture knobs, and bakers twine can add a nice accent to any miniature piece. Old washcloths were used as mini towels, while various beads and a paper butter cup were used to create a lamp.

The sitting area featured a long couch, bookshelf, coffee table, and wall sconce lighting. Added later but not shown here were a few books for the bookshelf and magazines for the coffee table.

The entire loft bed section was created with white mat board. The bed needs to be high enough so that a person can actually walk underneath comfortably, but low enough from the ceiling that they can sit upright in the bed. Keep that in mind for your own space and measure accordingly. Once you have these dimensions, you can decide on the size of the couch. I suggest making the couch as deep as possible so that it can be used as a second sleeping area for a guest. You could also make it like a trundle bed with a pull-out mattress underneath.

You can use post-it notes, printer paper, or cardstock to create a template for the shape of the area where the bed will rest against the walls. Keep in mind that these walls slant inward as they rise upward, so you need to take that into account when deciding on the height of the sleeping area. Once you have a template made, cut a single piece that will fit against the walls and come outward to the side and forward towards the room opening for a double-size bed. You can’t see it in the photos, but I left a space towards the back wall side of the bed for a small nightstand and an area where a person would be when they climbed the ladder.

There are so many options you could do with this space. You could add railings on the side of the bed that are viewed from the front, or add a higher wall on the same side with a board/shelf across the top for use as a nightstand. Let your imagination run wild and have fun!

Last but not least, in case you are wondering, the ceiling light was created with a large starfish shell. I carefully drilled a hole in the center to run the light wires through and secure the bulb. I love how it turned out.

Thanks for stopping by, and till next time, happy mini making!

Teri

The Woodland Collection

One of my favorite designs last year was the Woodland Collection that I created for the 2025 Chicago Spring Showcase of Miniature Show. Created for my Pergola kits, the cut-and-scored leafy vines are lovely accents for both structures and furniture. Not only are these kits fun and easy to build, but they can also be very relaxing to finish. If you find coloring fun, using acrylic paint markers to color the vines and/or leaves can be extremely relaxing and rewarding.

So far, the collection consists of a Pergola in 1:12, 1:24, and 1:48 scales, various cabinets, a bookcase, and patio furniture sets, also in various scales. These sold out at the shows I did last year, but I’ve made up a few more for this year’s show, as well as some new things for the collection. I plan to add more for the Indy show, so keep an eye out!

I wound up with a couple of sets of patio furniture left and decided to finish them up by adding a decorative screen and a base, as you see in the photo above. These will be sold as finished items at the upcoming show.

The pergola can be finished in a variety of ways, but the favorite seems to have been the black and brown color scheme with painted leaves. Last year, I had some weathervanes that could be added to the top of the 1:12 scale version, but those are no longer available.

In the photos below, you can see one of the bookcase kits inside the structure and a close-up of the tapestry kit. Where these were sold separately, the furniture and tapestry kits are now included with the Pergola as a full kit.

At left, you can see the light fixture I created for the Pergola. These include a twist-on/off battery operated led light. Both the light and the fixture are held in place with a magnet so they can easily be removed and replaced as needed.

The light fixture with the light is only available with the 1:12 and 1:24 scale kits. Only the light fixture is available in the 1:48 scale, and the light was just too large.

The China Cabinet is another one of my favorite furniture pieces and was very popular at the shows. The cabinet can be used with both the lower and upper parts glued together, or as separate pieces with the shelf unit hung on a wall. The vine cut version is only available in 1:12 and 1:24 scales, while the scored version is available in all three scales.

(ABOVE) Vine cut China Cabinet Kit

(LEFT) Scored China Cabinet Kit

This is just the start of this collection, as I have many other ideas for structures and furniture items. While I will only have a small amount of these kits at the show, all items in the collection will soon be available for ordering on my website shop.

If you would like to know when new kits are added to the collection, be sure to sign up for my newsletters!

Till next time . . . happy mini making!

Teri

When I first ran across this project, I fell in love with it and envisioned a very run-down haunted Lighthouse. If it grabs you as well, click the link below the title above and watch her construction videos. There is also a FREE PDF file with a cutting guide on her blog.

The original project was created with chipboard and scrapbook paper. Unable to cut straight lines with thick chipboard anymore, I choose to use Cricut Kraft Board and cardstock. So far, it’s worked well, but I did need to double up on the walls by adding kraft board liners inside. The same with the base as well as a support square in the center of the larger base.

As you can see from the images below, I’ve gotten pretty far in a weeks. Using Cricut Design Space, I’ve recreated all of the pieces based on April’s dimensions in the cutting guide. You can also see that an extra base has been added. This will become a graveyard.

The final thin base was created with 2mm chipboard, then covered in blue cardstock. I had to create this base in two pieces because of the size: 12″ wide by 15 1/2″ long.

The two bases were covered in cardstock that was embossed with a bricks folder from Darice, then inked with Ranger Distressing Inks in Black Soot and Vintage Photo.

I’ll be using the folder on the left for the tower section. I’m sorry, but there is no name or brand listed on the folder, but most likely it was purchased on Amazon.

To finish the top base, I’ve used the house to draw around so I will know where ground cover can be placed. You can see that pavers have been added from the front door at this point. These are cut pieces from the embossed sheets.

That’s it for this time, but stay tuned as I add new pics and info while I work more next week!

Week Two

This week, I’ve finished up the graveyard and top base area. Fence and headstones are all images from Cricut Design Space. Cardstock in black, grey, and white was used, then white pigment ink was applied for a distressed look.

The ground was created using old black tea grounds and salt crystals. Woodland Scenics fine turf and coarse turf were sprinkled on the base as well.

Fence sections were welded together in Design Space, cut twice, then glued together. The double thickness is needed to keep the fence firm.

Lastly, the brickwork from the sides of the base was repeated for the top base floor. The house will not be attached to the base but instead rest on top, giving access to the light.

UPDATE . . .

As you can see below, I’ve begun to add the siding strips. These are 5/16″ high by 11.50 long and cut on the Cricut Maker. Add scor-tape to the backside and apply to the house with each additional strip overlapping the preceding strip just a tad. On the corner,s use 1/2″ strips folded in half for trim.

did find that I had to make changes to the lighthouse part of the project. The original way was not working well for me, most likely due to the thinner materials. Instead, I created a hexagon shape, added stonework to the bottom, and different windows on three sides.

I’ll be using another embossing folder for a different type of brick on the lighthouse section.

THURSDAY UPDATE

There’s something about making shingles and siding, then applying the strips that I find so relaxing. Call me crazy, but it’s always my favorite part of a build. Today I’ve added both the entrance and main roof, then covered them with shingle strips and a cap on top.

You can also see that I’ve changed the original design once more by omitting the chimneys and adding an accent piece with an octagonal window. These were added to both the left and right sides.

Also, notice that all of the shingles are now glued on. You can see that they were left off one of the windows that has been boarded up.

FINAL UPDATE!

I managed to finish up the Haunted Lighthouse today!!! Well, the base still needs something, but I’m not sure what yet. The house, however, is now finished and has lights. Check it out . . .

The tower light is one of those bottle lights that has a USB charger inside it. I painted the light cover purple with alcohol inks. An LED round light has been used inside the house. It has several colors and can be changed with a remote.

A few paper cut-outs from Artfully Musing were added. I may add some spider webs at some point, but for no,w I’m done.

Hope you are inspired to try this project, and do visit Craft Knife Chronicles website as well as the YouTube channel for lots of fun projects!!!

Teri

Hello mini friends! While working on a recent project and figuring out measurements, it occurred to me that keeping a record of these measurements and design ideas would come in handy. So you will begin seeing these posts at random times at least once a month on my blog. I hope you find them helpful!

Here is a handy chart for wainscot paneling in three scales, showing typical heights for wainscotting and beadboard installation. These same ideas can be used for a combination of beadboard, wainscotting, and wallpaper.

This is a look at my current project using the chart above for placement on both the wallpaper and beadboard.

The beadboard was made from kraft board, which was scored by hand with a scoreboard tool. You can easily paint this material with acrylic paints if you like.

A heavy cardstock, like 100lb weight, would also work for making beadboard.

Here is an idea for adding trim and baseboard to a wall with beadboard. You could easily add a shelf on top of the top trim piece for a fun place to add minis!

And here is a fun idea for beadboard on a ceiling. I love unique ceilings on minis.

Make some beadboard and add it to your next project for something different!

Till next rime . . .

Teri

You can purchase a light set, which includes everything you need in a package, for only $5.50. Additional lights are available for $2.50, and a battery, battery holder, and switch are priced at $3.00 each.  (THESE PRICES COULD HAVE CHANGED SINCE I MADE THIS POST) At these prices, for a two-room building or smaller, your lighting is super affordable and far easier to work with than round or tape wiring!!

UPDATE !!!! – I’ve since started ordering ALL lighting materials from a shop called Model Train Software.  Please visit their website for lighting products. Great customer service! They are more than happy to answer any questions and help you with ordering the correct materials.

Here’s a look at what comes in the “set” package and how it comes to you.  Now don’t panic!!!  (grin).  This is so super easy, even I couldn’t mess it up!!

Basically, you have two wires connected to the LED light and two wires coming off the switch/battery unit.  Place the battery into the battery holder, plus side to plus side (marked on both the battery and the holder).  Now, see the little black tubes?  Slip one tube on each of the wires coming off the switch/battery unit, then twist the light wires to the switch/battery unit wires . . . red to red and then the other two wires to each other.  And when done, this is what you have . . .

Make sure that the little black tubes are covering all exposed wires, and then use a hair dryer to heat up the black tubes so they shrink tightly around the wires where you twisted them together. Test the lights to be sure they are working before you heat up the shrink tubes!

NOTE: The only issue I had was that my blow dryer wouldn’t get hot enough to shrink up the black tubes.  I had to get my craft heat gun out and use it.  With the heat gun, the tubes shrank up in seconds, but be careful not melt it all!!

Now here’s the light, lit-up

And here it is inside my house with the battery and extra wire up on the shelf in the shop ceiling. You could easily run the wires to the back of the structure and then use my upcoming Storage Shed Kit to hide the battery pack. Look for the shed to appear in my shop soon. It’s great for connecting to most any type build and will be available in several scales.

And in a dark room, so you can see how much light it gives off.  Pretty good, huh!  Bright enough that you can see what’s inside the house, looking through the windows.

As to the use in the village shop, you might want to make the ledge bottom wider, as the battery holder is almost an inch in diameter.

That all said, there is one more thing I want to mention, and another good reason to maybe run the light wire from the back of the building, through the wall to the inside.  According to the tutorial from the shop where I purchased the lights, you can actually connect several lights to one battery holder!!!  This means you could, for the shop, attach two or more lights to one battery holder and then run them into the shop for each floor. From the switch to the end of the wire where the light is, you have about 9″ to play with, and that will go pretty far in these shops.  If I thought a bit more, I probably would have done this for my Tea Shop!

Lastly, these lights would be great for lighting the inside of a cabinet or an under-counter light for a shop display counter.  I’m sure too that you could find a way to use these on the outside of a shop!  Or . . . get an inexpensive street lamp and add one of these lights to it!

So that’s it for now, but I’ll come back and update once I have my lights in place!

Update – 01

I used a small flat clear button, glued to a larger curved flower button for the shade.  The LED light runs through the button hole and back towards the trim, where it’s tucked into the trim.  Any remaining wire will be painted white to hide it.

Update – 02

So after the above was said and done, I ran across another type of LED lights and received them today.  As before, the same way to build the light was used, but these actually have two lights per set/battery, and they are larger and brighter than the ones above.  Here’s a look at the pkg and the light, parts, and finished.

Here’s a link to where I purchased these lights.  The item I purchased was the “Miniaturists Lighting Package

• coin cell holder : 4 inch wires
• LED wire Length : 8 inch wires
• coin cell battery : 1 battery
• Color : Warm White
• 1.8mm LEDs : 2 light packet

As you can see below, they are brighter than the other lights mentioned in the original post.

So this “package deal” will give you two lights to use in a single shop while having only one battery to conceal.  You can also change the package deal by adding as many as 6 lights and longer wires if needed.

Pretty inexpensive for lighting!

Happy Mini Making . . .

Teri

One thing I’ve noticed, via miniature Facebook groups and chatting with others, is that most tend to get hooked on that very first project and most likely will have a lifelong addiction to the miniature world.  You will probably never have just one project in the works at one time, and will try making things so tiny or elaborate that you never dreamed you could make.  This hobby is not only fun but also challenging and very rewarding.  I’ve found it to be a very relaxing hobby that keeps the brain and hands active.

You will find yourself looking at everyday objects in a different way, seeing suitcases as houses, tree limbs as posts or furniture bits, beads and buttons as lamp bases, and perfume bottles.

Being a newbie myself, there are many things I’ve discovered and realized along the way, as well as mistakes and choices I’ve made.  Hopefully, this information will help other newbies not make the mistakes I did or help them decide the best way to get started in this hobby.

Your first miniature project . . .

Not everyone starts this hobby off with a full-blown dollhouse.  Many begin with a small single-theme or room project created in a small space or room box.  You can create miniature scenes in lanterns, teacups, suitcases, or simple boxes.  These are mostly one-room scenes based upon a theme such as a garden scene, boutique, parlor, or other room of a house.  Even the Gazebo I have would have been a great starter project.  Starting this way gives you a good idea of what all goes into creating a scene, teaches you about scale, and is a project you can finish in a relatively short period of time.  In hindsight, I wish I had started with a room box just to get the feel of things.

As you can see below, my first project was a full dollhouse and a complicated sort of one as well.  There are many rooms at different angles with four rooms and an attic space on the backside, as well as four rooms, a hallway, and attic space on one end of the structure.  Personally, I think this is a big undertaking for a first project.

Laser cut house:  Jasmine Gothic Victorian with French Doors by laserdollhouses.com

Picking a dollhouse kit . . .

I am so glad that I picked a laser-cut style house for my first full house project. A nice thing about this style of dollhouse, and the manufacturer that it came from, is that all of the fancy trim, doors, and windows, as you see in the photos, were included.  Everything I needed to complete the structure was in the box, and I didn’t have to purchase anything but paint and glue.  This is not the case with every dollhouse manufacturer!  So when looking for your first house, do be sure to read or ask what is included with it!  Doors, windows, and trim can add to the initial cost of your project.  Another nice thing was that the sides of my house were made to look like siding, so I didn’t have to piece and apply clapboard siding to the structure, where most houses have siding in sheets or will need to be added to the house sides in strip pieces.

Another thing to understand is that most laser-cut houses are what they call “slot and tab” construction.  These are, in my opinion, the easiest structures to put together and great for beginners.  You simply have floors and walls that are held together with the slots and tabs, then glued together.  They go together rather quickly and easily.  Most regular houses are not slots and tabs where you simply glue the walls edge to edge

And let me say… not all “slot and tab” structures are equal!  Look at the house you are considering and see if the tabs are flush with the slots or if the tab sticks out beyond the slot.  Personally, I don’t care for those where the tabs extend beyond the slots.  I think it cheapens the finished look of the house.  Also, look closely at the fancy trim . . . is it delicate or chunky looking?  Again, personal preference, but I don’t care for the chunky-looking trim that a lot of manufacturers use.  These things may or may not be important to you, but they are things to pay close attention to and decide what you like before you invest several hundred dollars in a project.

Not one for a house yet?  What about creating a village shop?  Here’s my Tea Shop project . . .  It’s created from Chipboard and includes furnishings as seen below.

Choosing a scale for your project . . .

If you are new to the world of miniatures and Dollhouses, you’re likely confused about scale, just as most newbies are.  In fact, I’m still finding my way around the scale of things since getting my first dollhouse.  You might start out not being overly concerned about the correct scale being used in a project, but as you work and complete projects, you’ll find that this becomes more important for the overall end appearance of your project.

As you purchase items for your project, you will also find that not everyone’s scale is exactly the same.  I’ve purchased several items over the past few months that were stated as a specific scale, only to find them off a bit from other pieces in the same scale.  A good rule of thumb is to always pay attention to the piece measurements and ASK the seller for the measurements if they are not stated in the product description.

For example, here’s a pic of two 1:24 (half scale) (1/2″ = 1′) scale chairs, each from a different seller.

The chair on the left has a seat height of 5/8″ and a back height of 1-5/8″ and a width of 1-1/16″, while the chair on the right is 7/16″ x 1-1/8″ by 3/4″.  So which one is correct?  Well, here’s the tricky part . . . not all dollhouses are always “true to scale,” so you need to go buy what will fit in your house or project.  My first house was a laser-cut house, and though very close to scale, it isn’t “exact”.  While the chair on the left is perfect in it, the one on the right is way too small.  More often than not, it comes down to scale or an item being relative to your project unless you have built or purchased a structure that is “true to scale”.  I’ve found that it also helps to purchase your furnishings from the same or same group of sellers.

Pros and cons, for me, of starting with a half-scale structure were.

• Pros – the complete house was a lot smaller in half scale than it would be in full scale.  Full scale would have probably taken up most of that table you saw in the picture!  In half scale, the house measures 24Wx12Dx25H.  In full scale, it would be 39Wx19Dx39H.
• Cons – finding furnishings for the house in half scale.  Full scale is the most popular scale, it seems, and so I’ve found it very difficult to find decent furnishings for my house.  One, the selection is pretty limited, and two, most are not that great of quality, and if they are, they are very well made and very expensive!  It’s also very, very hard to find accessories in half scale.

Half scale has been a little frustrating for me in terms of finding furnishings on one hand, on the other, it’s been a challenge.  Sort of like a scavenger hunt, but for furniture and accessories.

That said, I think for a first project/house I would, knowing what I do now, a full-scale house or project to start with.

Furnishing your house . . .

The challenge, with half scale,  has been to discover what furnishings I can make myself. You would be surprised at what you can create out of everyday items.  These might not be super detailed or super fancy, but they can look very nice and well-suited to your house when you are creating most of the items yourself.

Here’s a good example . . . I wanted an old-fashioned cook stove, but the ones I found to purchase were either of poor quality or pretty expensive.  So I researched vintage cook stoves online and came up with the design for one below, creating it out of chipboard.  I did purchase the silver pots and pans, but the rest of the accents were created with paper or beads.

Another option is to find furniture kits that you can build.  These are wonderful, and I’ve had great success with them.  There’s a place I especially like:  Petite Properties.  Not a huge selection, but some nice pieces, and the scale has worked well in my house.  Furniture kits are often created with a thick mat board, cardboard or wood, and a lot of shops now sell the kits.  They can be painted or stained easily and are pre-cut, ready for assembly.  Below are some Petite Properties kits I’ve created.

Here’s the table from the above photo after I’ve finished it . . .

So when you think in terms of scale for your project or house, you’ll want to decide how much time you want to put into furnishing it.  Do you want to purchase everything or dive in and create or build furnishings?

Scale information . . .

Following is a little explanation of the most common and popular scales that should help you out.

• Full scale  1:12  one inch equals one foot in real life, sometimes called one inch scale, gained a widespread acceptance among collectors of artisan miniatures when it was chosen as the scale for Queen Mary’s Dolls House.  Most will start off with this scale.
• Half scale   1:24  one half inch equals one foot in real life, is gaining ground in the U.K. and Europe as a popular miniature scale. This is also a common play scale for children, as Playmobil houses and accessories are in this scale to go with the railroads and vehicles produced by Playmobil.
• Quarter scale  1:48  has become increasingly popular, especially in the U.K. This scale is similar to the railroad “O” scale, and building parts available for railroad buildings can be used for quarter scale houses. In this scale, a person 6 feet high in real life would be 1 1/2 inches (6/4) inches tall or almost 4 cm.
• Micro scale  1:144  has been called Dollhouse for a Dollhouse Scale or Micro Scale. Buildings this size can be used as 1:12 scale doll houses inside a 1:12 scale doll house. This is very close to the British “N” scale railway size of 1:148.

From my online searches, you can find 1:12 and 1:48 or 1:144 scale items easily.

You can use the following to determine pretty much the scale of your house or project . . .

• 1:12 scale with a ceiling height of 8-10″
• 1:24 scale with a ceiling height of 5-5.5″
• 1:48 scale with a ceiling height of 2.5″.

So there you go!  I hope you enjoyed the article and that you are ready to jump in and choose your first project or house.  Remember, above all else . . . have FUN!  Take your time and enjoy the process.

If you are ready to jump in and make a shop, house, or furniture… check out my shop for some fun projects created in chipboard!  It’s an inexpensive material and a great way to jump into the world of miniatures.

Happy Mini Making,

Teri